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Making Furniture
The beginner needs to realize that the difference between an amateur-looking furniture and a professional job, though important, is very small.
Often it is merely a matter of a piece of moulding or a corner brace, or a little extra sanding of the end grain.
In making a simple bedside lampstand and bookcase, for example, the tyro probably would be content with finishing everything off flush, and running the sides down to form feet. The professional, on the other hand, would give the top a slight overhang and form a simple thumb moulding on three edges.
He would certainly enclose the space below the bottom shelf, and perhaps cut the skirt into a decorative shape. This base would have the effect of giving four feet to the cabinet, and allow it to stand more firmly on the floor.
The difference between the two jobs therefore would not be one of extra skill on the part of the professional, but of a practical application of a knowledge of design and the way these things are usually done for the best results.
The closed-in base, as can readily be seen, is better from every standpoint. It shuts off a space that would collect dust yet be too low to permit of its being swept out. Thus for very little extra expenditure of labor and material a much more impressive and expensive-looking job results.
This principle can be extended to all kinds of furniture and cabinet-making jobs, including the selection of tools and the care they receive after they have been acquired. The professional gets the best tools he can afford, and buys at the same time
Continued....
From "How to Make Your Own Furniture"
By: Henry Lionel Williams
Ms Bergen has had a varied career, first as a special education teacher and then, after getting a MBA degree, as a vice-president of a major insurance firm. She has been making and selling crafts for the past eight years.
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If you'd like to start scrapbooking or create scrapbook-style art, but are simply overwhelmed by the vast product choices, let me help you narrow them down and get you going. I view scrapbooking as a highly specialized form of collage.
With scrapbooking, not only are you creating artistic arrangements and layers of objects, but you are doing it around an evocative theme. Scrapbook art almost always includes: 1. photos around which the theme is developed; and words or “journaling” which evoke, explain and expand on the theme.
The words form an integral part of the artistic arrangement. Scrapbookers love to play with and combine fonts to give words visual expression. Just as we use tone and volume to add expression to the spoken word, scrapbookers use fonts, letter placement and color to express their ideas and form a page that is pleasing to the eye. Just as words can be spoken melodically or harshly, softly or loudly, the words on a scrapbook page can visually shout, whisper, sing or pray.
I suppose a beginner could “go it alone” artistically, but I found it inspiring and very helpful to view other scrappers' work in order to appreciate the range of possibilities before I began. If you're fortunate enough to have a friend who scrapbooks, ask if you can look at her work. Also subscribe to a scrapbooking magazine. You get to see all the latest and greatest scrapbooking supplies and tools each month, along with examples of beautiful pages submitted by readers and experts.
To begin scrapbooking, it is very valuable to see how varied the art can be. No two scrappers will interpret a theme the same way. This gave me a sense of artistic license when I started. There is no one right way!
Four artists, given a theme and even a page layout, will invariably provide vastly different interpretations. In fact, such contests are held periodically. The results are omething to behold.
If you still feel overwhelmed after seeing the work of experienced scrappers (or maybe due to seeing their work!), start with one of the themed kits that are available at craft stores.
For the more adventuresome beginner, it's time to plan your page and make a shopping list!
First decide on the size for your page. The most popular size is 12 x 12”. One scrapper explained that's because you get more “real estate” to decorate. Decide on your theme and select photos for your page. Scrappers frequently use photos from the same shoot. This helps, not only as far as sticking with the theme goes, but also aids color coordination. Look for colors that dominate or accent the photos to decide on the colors for your background and trims.
Be sure you have the ability to get reprints should you damage one of your photos. Accidents do happen. Scan your original to a digital file if you don't have a negative or digital camera file. Have any valuable old photos professionally copied. There are two reasons for this: newer papers and newer inks both add durability.
Plan your journaling: what title and other words can you use to tie the photos together? Take your time with this step. Let your concept evolve and take shape. Think about your audience and especially the person or people in the photos. What will evoke a smile or wonderful memory for them?
Diagram a few scrapbooking layouts with your photos to settle on a balanced composition and to give you an idea of how much other “real estate” you have to play with. Your diagram will include some or all of the following: background paper; slashes or splotches of other papers; text box(es); a title box; and your photos.
Next consider what additional elements and techniques you will use to decorate: stamping; embossing; buttons; brads; ribbons; rub-ons; tags in paper or even glass or metal; twill tape; envelopes; and tiny embellishments.
“Tiny embellishments” is a whole industry that was practically launched by scrapbook art. If you remember being enthralled by doll house furniture and accessories as a child, you will be both enchanted and taken back to one of childhood's joys by scrapbooking embellishments.
Your shopping list is almost complete and should look something like this.
1. Background paper(s): size and color(s). Be sure any paper that will touch your photos is acid-free (archival quality). 2. Accent paper(s). Album, D-ring binder or frame and perhaps page protectors or glass. Ditto on “acid-free”. 3. Letters: your choice of rub-ons, stamps, metal glue-on letters, stickers, die-cut letters, old fashioned “typewriter key” letters. [You can also create some text using computer graphic or word processing programs.] 4. Ideas for embellishments.
Just brainstorm and jot down some items, but allow yourself to be inspired by what you find.
Last, but not least, don't forget the basics (some of which you may already have on hand). 5. Adhesives – from glue sticks and dots to tape and two-sided tape. Be sure those that will touch your photos are acid-free. 6. Cutting tool(s): good quality scissors and perhaps a paper trimmer. 7. Black journaling pen if you plan to write or draw in your own hand.
The rest is easy. So enjoy!
By: Eileen Bergen The Artful Crafter http://www.theartfulcrafter.com/scrapbooking-two.html
About the AuthorMs Bergen has had a varied career, first as a special education teacher and then, after getting a MBA degree, as a vice-president of a major insurance firm. She has been making and selling crafts for the past eight years.
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http://www.aaarticles.com/article.php?id=9202
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Glues and Gluing
In any cabinet shop good glue is just as essential as screws for fastening joints. Furthermore it often holds where screws and nails will not.
There are many kinds of glue available, hot, cold, liquid, and powder, but the only kind that you need consider is the modern synthetic resin plastic glues such as Cascamite(tm) or Weldwood(tm).
If you use the powder type of glue it is mixed with cold water, a little at a time as needed. Thus there is very little waste and the glue is always fresh. It dries in a couple of hours, and sets thoroughly hard overnight, but the glued joints should be kept in clamps for at least 12 hours and preferably 24, to allow for thorough seasoning of the glue which then attains its maximum strength.
In gluing, the adhesive is mixed to a creamy consistency, and spread thinly over the two contacting surfaces of the joint. The joint is then assembled, and pressure applied. The only exception to clamping is in the application of glue blocks. In this case the joint is freed of air bubbles, and proper contact is assured by rubbing the glued block back and forth in the angle between the two surfaces. No clamp is needed, but if the piece is to be moved about, a small brad judiciously placed may prevent the weight of the block from dislodging it.
In any wood joint, the glue fills the pores of the wood and literally welds the two surfaces together. With the work properly glued and clamped, the joint will become stronger than the surrounding wood so that it cannot be broken apart. The glues mentioned, incidentally, are waterproof when once they have set.
Continued....
From "How to Make Your Own Furniture"
By: Henry Lionel Williams
Furniture and Cabinet Making
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