Making Doll House Furniture

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The beginner needs to realize that the difference between an amateur-looking furniture and a professional job, though important, is very small.
How to Make Furniture...

Often it is merely a matter of a piece of moulding or a corner brace, or a little extra sanding of the end grain.

In making a simple bedside lampstand and book­case, for example, the tyro probably would be con­tent with finishing everything off flush, and running the sides down to form feet. The professional, on the other hand, would give the top a slight over­hang and form a simple thumb moulding on three edges.

He would certainly enclose the space below the bottom shelf, and perhaps cut the skirt into a decorative shape. This base would have the effect of giving four feet to the cabinet, and allow it to stand more firmly on the floor.

The difference between the two jobs therefore would not be one of extra skill on the part of the professional, but of a practical application of a knowledge of design and the way these things are usually done for the best results.

The closed-in base, as can readily be seen, is better from every stand­point. It shuts off a space that would collect dust yet be too low to permit of its being swept out. Thus for very little extra expenditure of labor and material a much more impressive and expensive-looking job results.

This principle can be extended to all kinds of furniture and cabinet-making jobs, including the selection of tools and the care they receive after they have been acquired. The professional gets the best tools he can afford, and buys at the same time

Continued....
From "How to Make Your Own Furniture"
By: Henry Lionel Williams


Ms Bergen has had a varied career, first as a special education teacher and then, after getting a MBA degree, as a vice-president of a major insurance firm. She has been making and selling crafts for the past eight years.
1a89 If you'd like to start scrapbooking or create scrapbook-style art, but are simply overwhelmed by the vast product choices, let me help you narrow them down and get you going. I view
scrapbooking as a highly specialized form of collage.


With scrapbooking, not only are you creating artistic arrangements
and layers of objects, but you are doing it around an evocative
theme. Scrapbook art almost always includes: 1. photos around
which the theme is developed; and words or “journaling” which
evoke, explain and expand on the theme.

The words form an integral part of the artistic arrangement.
Scrapbookers love to play with and combine fonts to give words
visual expression. Just as we use tone and volume to add expression to the spoken word, scrapbookers use fonts, letter placement and color to express their ideas and form a page that
is pleasing to the eye. Just as words can be spoken melodically
or harshly, softly or loudly, the words on a scrapbook page can
visually shout, whisper, sing or pray.

I suppose a beginner could “go it alone” artistically, but I found
it inspiring and very helpful to view other scrappers' work in
order to appreciate the range of possibilities before I began. If
you're fortunate enough to have a friend who scrapbooks, ask if
you can look at her work. Also subscribe to a scrapbooking
magazine. You get to see all the latest and greatest scrapbooking
supplies and tools each month, along with examples of beautiful
pages submitted by readers and experts.


To begin scrapbooking, it is very valuable to see how varied the
art can be. No two scrappers will interpret a theme the same way.
This gave me a sense of artistic license when I started. There is
no one right way!

Four artists, given a theme and even a page layout, will invariably provide vastly different interpretations. In fact, such contests are held periodically. The results are omething to behold.

If you still feel overwhelmed after seeing the work of experienced
scrappers (or maybe due to seeing their work!), start with one of
the themed kits that are available at craft stores.

For the more adventuresome beginner, it's time to plan your page
and make a shopping list!

First decide on the size for your page. The most popular size is
12 x 12”. One scrapper explained that's because you get more “real
estate” to decorate. Decide on your theme and select photos for
your page. Scrappers frequently use photos from the same shoot.
This helps, not only as far as sticking with the theme goes, but
also aids color coordination. Look for colors that dominate or
accent the photos to decide on the colors for your background and
trims.

Be sure you have the ability to get reprints should you damage one
of your photos. Accidents do happen. Scan your original to a
digital file if you don't have a negative or digital camera file.
Have any valuable old photos professionally copied. There are two
reasons for this: newer papers and newer inks both add durability.

Plan your journaling: what title and other words can you use to
tie the photos together? Take your time with this step. Let your
concept evolve and take shape. Think about your audience and
especially the person or people in the photos. What will evoke a
smile or wonderful memory for them?

Diagram a few scrapbooking layouts with your photos to settle
on a balanced composition and to give you an idea of how much
other “real estate” you have to play with. Your diagram will
include some or all of the following: background paper; slashes
or splotches of other papers; text box(es); a title box; and
your photos.

Next consider what additional elements and techniques you will
use to decorate: stamping; embossing; buttons; brads; ribbons;
rub-ons; tags in paper or even glass or metal; twill tape;
envelopes; and tiny embellishments.

“Tiny embellishments” is a whole industry that was practically
launched by scrapbook art. If you remember being enthralled by
doll house furniture and accessories as a child, you will be both
enchanted and taken back to one of childhood's joys by
scrapbooking embellishments.

Your shopping list is almost complete and should look something
like this.

1. Background paper(s): size and color(s). Be sure any paper
that will touch your photos is acid-free (archival quality).
2. Accent paper(s). Album, D-ring binder or frame and perhaps
page protectors or glass. Ditto on “acid-free”.
3. Letters: your choice of rub-ons, stamps, metal glue-on letters,
stickers, die-cut letters, old fashioned “typewriter key” letters.
[You can also create some text using computer graphic or word
processing programs.] 4. Ideas for embellishments.

Just brainstorm and jot down some items, but allow yourself to
be inspired by what you find.


Last, but not least, don't forget the basics (some of which you
may already have on hand). 5. Adhesives – from glue sticks and
dots to tape and two-sided tape. Be sure those that will touch
your photos are acid-free. 6. Cutting tool(s):
good quality scissors and perhaps a paper trimmer.
7. Black journaling pen if you plan to write or draw in your
own hand.

The rest is easy. So enjoy!

By: Eileen Bergen
The Artful Crafter
http://www.theartfulcrafter.com/scrapbooking-two.html

About the Author

Ms Bergen has had a varied career, first as a special education teacher and then, after getting a MBA degree, as a vice-president of a major insurance firm. She has been making and selling crafts for the past eight years.

2c
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Glues and Gluing
In any cabinet shop good glue is just as essential as screws for fastening joints. Furthermore it often holds where screws and nails will not.

There are many kinds of glue available, hot, cold, liquid, and powder, but the only kind that you need consider is the modern synthetic resin plastic glues such as Cascamite(tm) or Weldwood(tm).

If you use the powder type of glue it is mixed with cold water, a little at a time as needed. Thus there is very little waste and the glue is always fresh. It dries in a couple of hours, and sets thoroughly hard overnight, but the glued joints should be kept in clamps for at least 12 hours and preferably 24, to allow for thorough seasoning of the glue which then attains its maximum strength.

In gluing, the adhesive is mixed to a creamy consistency, and spread thinly over the two contacting surfaces of the joint. The joint is then assembled, and pressure applied. The only exception to clamping is in the application of glue blocks. In this case the joint is freed of air bubbles, and proper contact is assured by rubbing the glued block back and forth in the angle between the two surfaces. No clamp is needed, but if the piece is to be moved about, a small brad judiciously placed may prevent the weight of the block from dislodging it.

In any wood joint, the glue fills the pores of the wood and literally welds the two surfaces together. With the work properly glued and clamped, the joint will become stronger than the surrounding wood so that it cannot be broken apart. The glues mentioned, incidentally, are waterproof when once they have set.

Continued....
From "How to Make Your Own Furniture"
By: Henry Lionel Williams

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